« on: October 16, 2018, 11:15:14 PM »
I assume youíre using spinning gear...
I attach It to my line with just a snap and donít have issues with line twist at all.
This has not always been the case. I used to go through mono like crazy just because It would start twisting and I would pull It all off and replace It just to get rid of the twist.
First thing I did was poke around on the internet and discover that there are a few things you can do when spoiling the reel that will help prevent twist. First, you have to make sure that the line is going on the reel in the same way It is coming off the spool. Second, if youíre using mono, put the entire spool in a sink full of warm water before putting It on the reel - gets rid of the memory.
Third - donít use mono. I use 15 or 20 pound braid exclusively. If fish get shy, use a length of fluorocarbon leader. My experience is that even if I get a little twist with the braid, It is limited to the first 10 feet or so of line and doesnít seem to create the loop on the reel where line from further in the reel spool is coming off before It should (most common reason I had for replacing mono as I would often be stripping 20-30 yards of line off to get rid of the mess).
My size 35 President is a little over-full with a 150 yard spool of Power Pro 20 pound braid and about perfect with 150 yards of the 15 pound. Itís $20 for a spool and I can use It for a couple of months if I take the time to put my spare spool on the reel and pull the line from one spool to the other. On my size 25 Okuma reel I drop down to the 10 pound Power Pro which is really very tiny diameter like 4 pound or something. Again, 150 yards fills It.
Pros for the braid:
Better casting (just donít try to act like Hercules and throw It as hard as you can - use the flex of the rod to launch It as opposed to your entire body, because a huge entire body heave can cause issues with the eye at the end of the rod if the line gets wrapped around It (as in the braid can break the rod tip with a half ounce lure attached to It)
Better abrasion resistance. Pike will still cut It. Not as often though. Rocks will mar It up, but nicks will generally not cause It to fail unless you completely ignore them. If thereís a strand coming apart, just re tie.
Superior sensitivity. The walleye I am catching are finicky biters for the most part. Sure they will sometimes nail It, but more often than not all I get is a quick ďtapĒ - if you want to know what It feels like, hit your rod just up in front of the handle with one finger using the same force you use to type on a keyboard - if your hit would kill a spider, thatís harder than the tap the fish will produce. You simply cannot feel most of those with mono.
Does not break in snags. I now carry around size 6 and size 8 treble hooks at all times as these are the two most common sizes on the baits I use. 80% of the time if I get snagged I can either straighten out or break the hook before the line breaks. 20% of the time either the knot will break or the lure itself will break (I have broken the lip off of more than a few crank baits on a certain snag where I fish).
Now if you do get snagged, donít cut the line. Either hold the spool and pull straight back or take your pliers and wrap around the line and pull the line with the pliers. Donít pull It with your hand because It will slice you. Be careful because if you pull just with your reel It can bend or break the bail arm.
I only use a swivel if I am using bait (under a bobber or down from a sinker) or throwing in line spinners.
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